Has anyone tried this film?

[Steve Boykin]

Adox Silvermax 100 iso 35mm x 36 exp. | Freestyle Photographic Supplies.

 

[Pete Askew]

No, but it sounds interesting. I should have added some of that onto my order with Fotoimpex

ADOX Silvermax B&W film with high silver content (Films) - fotoimpex.de analogue photography

 

[David Mitchell]

I guess it might be like some of the T max films, would be interesting to see although odd they are calling it a 'high speed' film when its ISO 100.

 

[Steve Boykin]

Apparently you use this developer which will develop 30 rolls of film. Does that sound reasonable?

Adox Silvermax Film Developer - 250ml | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

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odd they are calling it a 'high speed' film when its ISO 100.

I thought that was strange too.

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No, but it sounds interesting. I should have added some of that onto my order with Fotoimpex

Pete,

Do you think this would be too complicated to start with? It's kind of pricey so maybe I should start out with something cheaper. It's just that I shoot outdoors most and I think something at ASA 100 would be better for me.

THANKS!!!

 

[David Mitchell]

If you are specifically looking for black and white check out some XP2, alternativly simply use colour film and then convert to black and white.

 

[Steve Boykin]

If you are specifically looking for black and white check out some XP2, alternativly simply use colour film and then convert to black and white.

I am going to order two rolls of that. The class I'm taking this Fall is a B/W class. We have the full darkroom set up at the college I work at with the fancy spinning door, et al. The first part of the class is how to develop and print. That said before the class starts I want to try out B/W because it's very hard for me. I know the instructor so he told me he would give me a set of keys to the building if I wanted to use it on the weekends. I really want to learn how to do B/W, but I'm not hopeful....

 

[David Mitchell]

Ah, perhaps avoid the XP2 as thats C41 processed (colour processed), have a look at some HP5 perhaps?

Also look up 'stand process' for black and white - basically put the film in the developer, leave it, fix and wash lol

Also check out Ted Forbe's channel on Youtube, here is the process to develop black and white film:

Episode 23 :: Developing Film - YouTube

 

[Pete Askew]

Personally I would start with Ilford FP4 (or T-Max 100 from Kodak), especially if you are shooting outdoors. The you can use it to learn 'normal' B&W development. They may well recommend something on the course. Having something with less exposure latitude will probably help with the learning process too and a correctly exposed FP4 negative will be a good place to start to learn the craft of printing. You'll enjoy it I'm sure.

 

[Brian Moore]

Steve,...I believe the developer recommended by Freestyle for that film is just that,...a recommendation...probably to get the best quality and least grain out of the film. I've not tried that film because I use Rodinal as a developer (and sometimes coffee) and although Rodinal would work, its generally perceived as not the best developer for small grain.

If you plan to use the darkroom at the school for this film you may find it much more convenient just to use whatever developer they have there. Indeed, you may find it awkward to try using a different developer. I think I'd check with the teacher before doing that.

If you want to do developing at home, I don't know of a simpler developer than Rodinal. It's cheap, its easy to mix, it's "one-shot" (meaning you discard the diluted developer after one use), it lasts forever on the shelf, and it goes a long long way (especially if using highly dilute mixtures, such as 1+100). Plus Freestyle sells it, so you can order a bottle with whatever film you decide on. (Its sold as R09.)

By the way, here are the developing times for the Silvermax films in Rodinal.
B&W Film Developing Times | The Massive Dev Chart

One more thing,...if I were you I'd go to Flickr and check out the images people have posted that have been taken with the Silvermax film. I'd also look to see if there are any examples of Silvermax film images developed in a developer other than the one recommended by Freestyle. (I've nothing against that developer, I'm just thinking about ease of use for you, in case you are obliged to use the developer that the school's darkroom is equipped with.)

 

[Steve Boykin]

Steve,...I believe the developer recommended by Freestyle for that film is just that,...a recommendation...probably to get the best quality and least grain out of the film. I've not tried that film because I use Rodinal as a developer (and sometimes coffee) and although Rodinal would work, its generally perceived as not the best developer for small grain.

If you plan to use the darkroom at the school for this film you may find it much more convenient just to use whatever developer they have there. Indeed, you may find it awkward to try using a different developer. I think I'd check with the teacher before doing that.

If you want to do developing at home, I don't know of a simpler developer than Rodinal. It's cheap, its easy to mix, it's "one-shot" (meaning you discard the diluted developer after one use), it lasts forever on the shelf, and it goes a long long way (especially if using highly dilute mixtures, such as 1+100). Plus Freestyle sells it, so you can order a bottle with whatever film you decide on. (Its sold as R09.)

By the way, here are the developing times for the Silvermax films in Rodinal.
B&W Film Developing Times | The Massive Dev Chart

One more thing,...if I were you I'd go to Flickr and check out the images people have posted that have been taken with the Silvermax film. I'd also look to see if there are any examples of Silvermax film images developed in a developer other than the one recommended by Freestyle. (I've nothing against that developer, I'm just thinking about ease of use for you, in case you are obliged to use the developer that the school's darkroom is equipped with.)

Thanks!!! That's excellent info. I REALLY appreciate it. There is a kit they sell at the bookstore with film/paper/and chemicals. I haven't checked it out yet. It's probably the most basic/easiest to use. I'm probably getting ahead of myself here.

Apparently it is a very well equipped darkroom. Dave, the instructor, was the staff photographer for Scott and White hospital for years. He used to photograph all the operations, ect. He did medical and technical. Apparently when Scott and White went all digital they just donated the darkroom to the college. They had to build an addition onto the art building for it. It's kind of an unusual situation.

That said, I think I better stick to something very basic at first. I just would prefer to buy my film/paper/chemicals somewhere else. The bookstore is guaranteed to be the most expensive even with shipping. College bookstores are a rip-off.

So if you guys have any suggestions on film let me know. I will get the Rodinal.

 

[Brian Moore]

Freestyle is good for film. If you want B&W check out their line of Arista EDU. Under $3 ($2.89 or something like that) for 36 exposures. Its good film, too. I think maybe it's Fomapan. For years they had a deal with Kodak (and one with Fuji) and they were selling Plus-X and Tri-X under their own brand name (they called it Arista Premium). Those films, too were under $3.

For color fil, keep your eyes on Walgreens and Rite Aid. Sometimes they have deals going on the 3 or 4 packs of film they sell.

 

[Steve Boykin]

Freestyle is good for film. If you want B&W check out their line of Arista EDU. Under $3 ($2.89 or something like that) for 36 exposures. Its good film, too. I think maybe it's Fomapan. For years they had a deal with Kodak (and one with Fuji) and they were selling Plus-X and Tri-X under their own brand name (they called it Arista Premium). Those films, too were under $3.

For color fil, keep your eyes on Walgreens and Rite Aid. Sometimes they have deals going on the 3 or 4 packs of film they sell.

Thanks Brian!!

The Walgreens here in town is the only place left that processes film. However, they are getting rid of their wet lab. The lady there told me she didn't think the Sam's Club did film processing either. That said, I have a personal thing about shopping at Walmart. I'm not opposed to anyone who does, I just won't. I take my parents to Walmart frequently. I just don't let them buy me anything.

I think I am going to try out this place for color film:

Film Developing at The Darkroom | Develop Film by Mail for $10

I got six rolls of the Adox Color Implosion. I'm just trying to figure out the meters on these film cameras. It's not like on digital. You have to make some assumptions with the shutter speed/aperture adjustments. What if it falls between 125 and 250 but you really want F4. You kind of have to decide which shutter speed you want to use. I don't think I mastered that with rolls I ran through the Fm2 and that Canonet I got at the Thrift Store.

I must admit that Canonet worked better than I thought it would. The 500 maximum shutter speed presented some problems though.

I am going to get some of that Arista film. It's like learning a whole new language for me. I use my Fuji digital cameras on Aperture Priority and Multi on the metering. I know how slow I can hand hold it and adjust the ISO to compensate. Probably a moronic way of doing it.

I am going to get a couple more rolls of color film (if I can find them here) and try it again next weekend. That Adox was kind of expensive so I want to figure out the metering before I use it.