Nikon Wireless Flash System Question

Paul Lange

Paul Lange

Moderator
Hopefully someone knows this....

If I had a Nikon camera with wireless flash commander function could I fire only the off board flash and not the built in flash on the camera?

It strikes me that sometimes you would not want the cameras built in flash used but would want the off board one to fire.
 
Hi Paul, I think by the sound if it, your suggesting something that I'm also looking for an answer for, lol. But so far, as far as I'm aware with my Olympus set up, it uses the in built flash as the trigger for the off camera flash, BUT, the built in flash shouldn't have an affect on the exposure of the shot. I've tried dropping the built in flash down and haven't been able to trigger the off cam flash off. I'd also be glad if anyone knows a solution for what Paul has raised (for my benefit too) lol :) Or I suppose the only other way would be to use a ttl hotshot cable, but then you'd be quite restricted! :(
 
It seems a bit weird that the system has so much control over the remote flashes which in some ways is taken away by having to to have the built in flash firing for the exposure. Obviously it has to fire for the pre flashes in order to activate the remotes.
 
Ah, found the answer after a bit more digging. It seems the answer is no but there is a work around but it sounds as if there is a limitation. Wireless systems may be the better way to go for some situations but I can see where the Nikon system is useful especially if you have a camera with the built in commander function and a flash that can act as a slave. I have the same flash as you Dan (but Nikon dedicated). The manual says it is compatible with the Nikon wireless system, I don't know if it is compatible with your camera though. I have seen no mention of it.

see

http://www.flickr.com/groups/nikon_d90/discuss/72157610144447169/

and here

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1034&message=30148080
 
As mentioned in previous discussions, I tend to use the wireless remote trigger by hahnel that works great without having the pop up flash interfering with things, but, it doesn't prove to anyone of the products full potential. I must admitt though, you've really got me quite intrigued, I may just scrutinise my manual and see what it really can do.
 
It looks like the Hahnel remote is not compatible with iTTL or the Olympus alternative. However the more I use the flash the more I find myself manually adjusting the flash EV and the camera EV & shutter settings anyway so maybe not so much of a big deal. Also it seems that a lot of the studio flash equipment isn't iTTL anyway and results possible are fantastic. I'm currently waiting for my wireless adapters to arrive, I bought them from Link Delight. Pretty cheap for a set with 3 receivers and hopefully they work but I have bought some other bits and pieces from them before and the quality was quite good.

I imagine that the Nikon system is similar to the other major manufacturers and its pretty nuts. Loads of control over the flashes but it does seem there is a limitation.
 
Limitations are a pain, maybe a possible opportunity for new ideas and inventions? hahaha! Being silly now.. As you stated though, it isn't much of a great deal, in fact, I love it. Teaches me a great deal about how to get to grips with it. And I suppose it's a good contribution to the new years resolution that I'm sure it was chris who posted about manually controlling everything in your set up. But hey, I do apologies. I'm going well of the subject here. Lol. Great stuff. Let me know how you get on when your adaptor arrives :)
 
Just had a look on eBay and there are quite a few flash meters there. My favourite meters are the Sekonic range. The older Minolta ones are also very good. I do have Gossen meters as well but their latest offerings just aren't as good as the current Sekonic's. The old spot-meter is fantastic though.
 
I've got a rather lowly D3000 at the moment but I'm looking in a possible upgrade with the D300 or D90 as an option. However from the links above it seems that the commander flashes still have an effect on the shot even when supposedly set not to fire for the actual shot. The reason for the upgrade would be to have an effective flash lighting set up for both in and outdoors. The flashguns seem good for outdoors and possibly a small studio kit for indoors. I'm just trying to put something together that is just right, not being way other the top or scrimping too much and not being something I can build on later instead of having to abandon it complete when upgrading.

How would I use an exposure meter to be more beneficial than just taking the shot and reviewing it on camera. I have read that exposure meters are not really needed these days as the cameras tend to have very good metering and shots are effectively free, not like the days of film.
 
A lot of the time the in-camera meter is fine, but an off-camera meter is still hugely useful sometimes. This is especially true of flash otherwise you have to use a very formuliac approach and the TTL system will only tell you that the overall light level is right. Then you end end up fiddling with the ratio of the heads to get what you want based on what you see in the shot. Metering the heads is much more powerful and gives you complete control and is a faster route to the setup you want. You can work out what light is going where.
 
with regards to the on board flash being disabeled when using of camera flash gun wireless

My canon 7D has built in wireless trigger, it will fire an off camera flash gun remotely however the on-board flash will also fire but will not effect the image as it fires just before the flash gun does.

I am not sure if Nikon works the same way.

Daz
 
The Nikon should work in the same way I guess - the pre-flash will fire but not the main flash. I can't check because my bodies don't have built in flash (D3/D3s) and the only one that does (D700) is sitting on a microscope at work!

Hi Paul, that's right. First you decide how you want to light eg flash from above left through softbox, secondary from right off reflector at 2 stops less and background light at 2 - 3 stops more than main light onto a white background to give a high-key setup. You would fire each separately to make sure you were getting what you wanted and then also meter around to check for spill etc. Then meter the whole lot and 'dial-in' the setting into the camera. Then do the test shot and make any fine adjustments you might want
 
Cheers Pete, I can see its quite useful to have one if you have a set of lights.

Darren, the Nikon system is the same but it seems that apparently the on board flash does effect the exposure even though its not supposed to. Be useful to get it verified though as sometimes what you read on the web can lead you astray.
 
Daz, I'm glad you've clarified that. Pretty much the same procceedure as my set up, built in flash fires then a split second after it fires the slave flash, so in effect, it doesn't intefere with your exposure according to the manual of my flashgun, and happily enough, it doesn't :)
 
I have skimmed this a bit so excuse me i you have found a solution but I have a little tip...

Slave flash guns are triggered using the IR portion of the light spectrum.
If you need to use an onboard flash to trigger a slave but don't want the flash from the onboard flash to effect the photo all you need to do is filter the light from the flash so only the IR gets through...

This can be done very cheaply ... All you need is a bit of unexposed developed slide film.
Unexposed developed slide film let's through only IR light.
Cover your on board flash with a bit of it and it will flash only IR light, trigger your of board flash, and not effect the image...
 
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