David Freed
Member
More questions from a darkroom newbie:
I am shooting with photo paper in my pinhole camera, either using Harman Direct Positive paper, or Arista VCFB Pearl paper which I want to use as paper negatives. I'm developing both in Eco Pro B/W Paper Developer followed by Eco Pro Clearfix Neutral Rapid Fixer.
Another photographer who is also using photo paper (which has much short exposure times than the Harman direct positive paper) to make paper negatives suggested using a diluted solution of film developer, which will develop the paper much slower, and allow more control in how dark/light the print is.
Some questions:
* If I used the film developer, can I still use the Eco Pro Clearfix Neutral Rapid Fixer?
* Could I dilute the B/W paper developer and get the same results?
* For photo paper development, I'm only using development and fixer. If I used film developer (instead of paper developer) would I have to use anything else besides the fixer, such as a stop bath, or will the current paper fixer suffice?
Thanks, David
I am shooting with photo paper in my pinhole camera, either using Harman Direct Positive paper, or Arista VCFB Pearl paper which I want to use as paper negatives. I'm developing both in Eco Pro B/W Paper Developer followed by Eco Pro Clearfix Neutral Rapid Fixer.
Another photographer who is also using photo paper (which has much short exposure times than the Harman direct positive paper) to make paper negatives suggested using a diluted solution of film developer, which will develop the paper much slower, and allow more control in how dark/light the print is.
Some questions:
* If I used the film developer, can I still use the Eco Pro Clearfix Neutral Rapid Fixer?
* Could I dilute the B/W paper developer and get the same results?
* For photo paper development, I'm only using development and fixer. If I used film developer (instead of paper developer) would I have to use anything else besides the fixer, such as a stop bath, or will the current paper fixer suffice?
Thanks, David
