Pete Askew
Admin
Because, at the moment, I only have a mains operated processor, using Impossible 10x8 film in the field is a problem. However, today I set the camera up behind my business premises to try the film out outside. The first problem I had was that I wanted a narrow DoF but the film is rated at 640 ISO and it was quite bright. I didn't have a ND filter large enough to hand and so I settled on shooting at the maximum shutter speed of the lens and stopping down (1/125s at f/22). The film appeared to be over-exposing by about 1 stop in the first shot and so I stopped down more for the second. This one came out well but the dark slide had stuck just partly closed and so part of the frame was obscured ( 
- I have sorting that out now). So I took the shot below. The previous shot had no bands at all but this one did - no idea why, a quirk of the material I assume. What I did discover is that the bellows have a very small light leak on the top nearside corner where it meets the frame (the cause of the light area on the LH side). That can be fixed by re-bonding it to the frame or with a piece of tape.
Here is a Nik'd variant.
Toyo 810M II + Rodenstock 240mm F/5.6 Apo-Sironar-S (Copal 3). Impossible 10x8 B&W film, 1/125s at f/22. PP in LR / Nik SilverFX Pro 2.
- I have sorting that out now). So I took the shot below. The previous shot had no bands at all but this one did - no idea why, a quirk of the material I assume. What I did discover is that the bellows have a very small light leak on the top nearside corner where it meets the frame (the cause of the light area on the LH side). That can be fixed by re-bonding it to the frame or with a piece of tape.
Here is a Nik'd variant.
Toyo 810M II + Rodenstock 240mm F/5.6 Apo-Sironar-S (Copal 3). Impossible 10x8 B&W film, 1/125s at f/22. PP in LR / Nik SilverFX Pro 2.
i find the softer tones in the original a little more appealing. the processed version would have been good on it's own if i hadn't seen the original.
