First Time Developing - Changing Bag Needed?

David Mitchell

Well-Known Member
Hi all,

I have just ordered myself one of those Paterson tanks as I have found out that I can't get my 120 film processed at my usual place, so decided that I would just try it myself :)

Do I need to get myself a changing bag or do you think its ok for me to do it in my mini darkroom/airing cupboard? :D Could I perhaps use a red safelight as well? It would only be black and white film I would be developing so I am thinking that would be ok?

Where should I get my chemicals from? SH darkroom supplies?
 
Hello David, It will be fine to load the film into the tank in the cupboard providing that you are in total darkness, do not use a safelight as this will expose the film. Safelights are used when you are developing the paper, not the film. You will find that most of the chemical suppliers have similar prices. Ilford DDX, Rapid Fixer and Ilfostop are good to start with although you should download the datasheets and check that your film has a developing time listed. The main issue is consistency; temperature, timings & procedure. I normally fill the sink with hot and cold water until it is around 21 degrees and then leave the bottles of mixed chemicals in there while I load the film onto the spiral. and then wait until the water has reduced to 20 deg and then check the temperatures of the chemicals individually with separate thermometers.
 
Thanks for that Paul, I will still get a safelight at some point then as I will be looking to shoot some paper negatives in the Speed Graphic.

The airing cupboard is indeed total dark, its offset from 2 other doors so if I close those doors its completly dark :)

I will get a themometer then, I am thinking about trying a stand process as well, I think I have around 5 unexposed rolls of 120 film. I plan to shoot a roll this week and then use it as a test development, I can then scan them in on the V600 and create a digitial negative to Cyanotype print :)

Will order some chemicals soon for them to arrive by next weekend for me to try out :)
 
Paul's advice is spot-on David. I usually process at 24ºC as it is easier to control a temperature above ambient than close to it, but Paul's method will work perfectly. I would start with a standard development process first before going on to stand development so you can check if your exposure and technique are OK. Good luck. :)
 
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