Harman Titan 4x5 - A user diary

Hamish Gill

Tech Support (and Marketing)
If you read about http://www.realphotographersforum.com/general-discussion/10308-my-trip-focus-2013-a.html you will know that I bought a Harman Titan off the Harman Ilford stand. I have been interested in this camera since focus 2012 where we met the guy who designed it Mike Walker (http://walkercameras.com/pinhole_cameras.html). After speaking to Mike I left the stand even more set on the idea that I was going to have a good go a large format photography then look toward buying one of these. Well, in the year between the two shows I did have a go at LF photography, but for one reason or another only shot two photos with a camera I borrowed... And I've still not developed them!

A year on, 5 minutes at the Ilford stand and I had talked my self into buying one ... I basically couldn't help my self! Mike spent quite a long time talking us through the process he uses to make the pin hole, and all the other considerations that went into making the thing. Fascinating it was, even if most of it went over my head ... and thats him talking about a camera that comprises of a plastic cone, acid cut pin hole and a bit for holding the LF film holder.

Here it is:


Harman Titan by Hamish_Gill, on Flickr

the side on profile shows just how small it is


Harman Titan by Hamish_Gill, on Flickr

the pin hole


Harman Titan by Hamish_Gill, on Flickr


Harman Titan by Hamish_Gill, on Flickr

The pin hole is a f/206 with a 72mm focal length cone (35mm equiv to around 20mm I think).
You take a photo by removing the dark slide in the film holder and taking the cap off ... simple as that!
The is no way to frame the photo with the camera as standard other than pointing it in the right direction and crossing your fingers. It does have two spirit levels and two tripod threads as well as a shoe for mounting a viewfinder (I guess) though so there is help. Im going to use my iphone which wont cover the full frame, but balanced on top will give me a good idea.

I have also downloaded the Pinhole Assist app https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/pinhole-assist/id466757473?mt=8 for the iphone which has a setting for the f/206 aperture as well as reciprocity compensation for delta 100 film ...

So, I'm all set! Ive just loaded a couple of sheets of film using Pete's guide on http://www.realphotographersforum.com/film-conventional-cameras/4311-loading-5-x4-film-holder.html
My chemicals also turned up today... Just got to get my arse out the house tomorrow and take some photos!
 
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It does Pete, on three sides, it's held in place by the ridge on the holder and some 'Lee' sprung clips. It seems pretty tight!
 
Hamish, I really can't wait to see the result! Very very interested!
Good Luck with it. :)
 
Yeah! Course it is! ,'/
Don't go telling Hannah that I thought it was okay. Lol.
I'm on full house duty whilst the wife puts her feet up :(
 
So at f/206 I assume we're talking HUGE depth of field, and lonnnng exposures Hamish?

So moving objects will effectively be removed from the image - leaving you with just the stationary stuff
 
That's about right Chris ...

just been out ...

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Its going o take a bit of getting used to... The above shot called for a 5 min exposure, where another from a different angle with a bit more sky wanted a 15sec exposure ... It seems that because of reciprocity failure - at least as directed by the app a difference of 4 ev can make a massive difference to the exposure.

These two screen grabs where taken from the same spot in the street just pointed at different things ... 4 ev difference, massive difference in exposure ... I guess using incident readings might be a better option than this app!

is reciprocity failure even worth setting up for in daylight? I guess not in hindsight ... ??

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we shall see the outcome of these later ... All part of the fun eh?!
 
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might be easier with a spot meter Hamish? - going zone and all that
 
Hmm, far to complicated for my liking ... The iPhone makes for a pretty decent meter, any differences from spot metering would probably only be +/-1ev give or take ...
My confusion really lies with this reciprocity compensation ... I just don't know how much I need to take it into consideration ...???

- - - Updated - - -

... And when...

these few shots I have just taken will help me understand the, like with anything... It's all part of the curve :)
 
If I have remember right reciprocity failure is due to longer exposures and even though you are shooting in daylight at F206 the amount of light reaching the film won't be too much more than a nighttime exposure.

I think also when it comes to shutter speed 1 stop is no longer the halving or doubling the exposure time as you have to take in account the varying reciprocity failure for the different timings.
 
The app I have does a fine enough job it seems.

These are just rough "scans" taken with my rx100 ... I took them wet so I could stick them to a piece of acrylic - not ideal, but I wanted to get an idea before I get a chance to scan them on Tuesday!

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Not great yet, but I think they should come up nice when they dont have bubbles behind them ... the first one has a patch of dodgy development i think :/
 

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