Ilford 3200

S

Steve Boykin

Well-Known Member
I would love to see any photos anyone has made with this film. I just bought 5 rolls (120). Any advice anyone has for metering (I use a Pentax Digital Spotmeter) and developing (preferably in D76 but I can use HC110) would be greatly appreciated.

THANKS!!!!!

Steve Boykin
 
The mistake I often made was trying to use it in too low light. I pushed it to 26500iso a couple of times with actually fairly passable results, but had I realised at the time I was working outside of the limitations of my equipment I probably wouldn't have bothered trying. The light meter in the camera I was using just didn't work down to the levels of light I thought I could shoot in, at the time it didn't cross my mind...

Anyway, that's not to discourage you from using it... Just giving you a mistake I made to learn from ;)

It's quite grainy and the results are fairly high contrast, which is good for the dull low light situations you might want to use it in. Metering off skin tone is a good place to start in low light as it provides a good average ... Lightmeters are easily fooled and can provide confusing/overwhelming results if you are in a situation when light sources are points of light surrounded by dark. Eg point the meter directly at a candle then at a dark bit of room behind it and see the variation ... In that situation, spot metering directly off the persons face lit by the candle is the way to get a good exposure. Slightly simplistic
 
Hamish Gill said:
The mistake I often made was trying to use it in too low light. I pushed it to 26500iso a couple of times with actually fairly passable results, but had I realised at the time I was working outside of the limitations of my equipment I probably wouldn't have bothered trying. The light meter in the camera I was using just didn't work down to the levels of light I thought I could shoot in, at the time it didn't cross my mind...

Anyway, that's not to discourage you from using it... Just giving you a mistake I made to learn from ;)

It's quite grainy and the results are fairly high contrast, which is good for the dull low light situations you might want to use it in. Metering off skin tone is a good place to start in low light as it provides a good average ... Lightmeters are easily fooled and can provide confusing/overwhelming results if you are in a situation when light sources are points of light surrounded by dark. Eg point the meter directly at a candle then at a dark bit of room behind it and see the variation ... In that situation, spot metering directly off the persons face lit by the candle is the way to get a good exposure. Slightly simplistic
Click to expand...


THANK YOU!! The info the D76 is especially helpful. In theory I could develop a roll of Acros with the Ilford. I am using a 12 minute development time on it also because I am rating the film at ISO 200.

I have one of those little zone strips stuck on the top of the Pentax meter. The meter goes to ISO 6400. I have made some test readings of the places I am planning on shooting with the film. I shouldn't have an issue with rating it at ISO 3200. I am using a Mamiya 645 1000. The camera will probably be on a tripod most of the time when I am using it. I am going to have deal with some of the lights falling into/above zone 10, but I think will be kind of cool or whatever you say that is the equivalent of "cool" these days (I'm 53 so I just don't know anymore). A laundromat is one of the places. I think I can hand hold it there. I am using a 35mm F3.5 lens on the Mamiya which is really wide. You can open it up and still get a lot of DOF.

I do have a Klasse question regarding Ilford 3200. I would like to try it with that camera too. Have you heard about the NP setting or know anything about it. I got this off FLICKR trying to figure out a way to use it (see below). Apparently it reads the DX coding but doesn't have a ISO 3200 setting. Does this sound right?

"NP mode is for low light situations and should be turned on and off accordingly. Here's what my friend in Japan translated for me with regards to NP mode:

Page 68 : NP mode

"A feature to automatically add 0 to +2EV exposure (increment is automatically set by the camera depending on ambient light value) when using ISO 800, 1600, or 3200 films.
Designed for general shooters shooting high speed negs, to salvage the pitch black area - faces at a candle lit table for instance.
NOTE : If an exposure compensation is set, the NP can't be set"

Thanks again so much for all your help!!!!!!

SB
 
I say "cool" but then I think I'm past it too ... One of my employees is 20 and sometimes he might as well be talking german as far as I am concerned!

Anyway have a read of this http://www.35mmc.com/31/05/2013/fuji-klasse-w-comments-on-exposure-and-focusing/
I dont cover NP as i simply dont get it! Give it a go is my advice! :)
The article does cover me getting to grips with the limitations of low light shooting and moreover, the limitations of certain light meters
 
Hamish Gill said:
I say "cool" but then I think I'm past it too ... One of my employees is 20 and sometimes he might as well be talking german as far as I am concerned!

Anyway have a read of this http://www.35mmc.com/31/05/2013/fuji-klasse-w-comments-on-exposure-and-focusing/
I dont cover NP as i simply dont get it! Give it a go is my advice! :)
The article does cover me getting to grips with the limitations of low light shooting and moreover, the limitations of certain light meters
Click to expand...

I am reading it right now. Thanks!!! I have the same issue with a GA645 I have. I have to shoot that thing in manual mode. It's kind of pain, because to change the shutter speed you have to press this little EV compensation button and turn a wheel on the top of it at the same time. I like the little Klasse but in the end I prefer to shoot manual. That's why I like the Fuji digital cameras so much. I do have a FM2 + lenses that I bought prior to deciding on shooting MF for the class. However, I'm loaning them right now to this German woman who is taking Photo I. She is a character. I feel sorry for her, Texas is just a horrible place to live if you aren't into guns/trucks/beer/Fox News. I really wish there was some kind of small-ish 35mm camera that was fully manual. I would be perfectly content with a 28mm or 35mm lens. Dave talked me into getting a 150 and a 210 for the Mamiya. I have never used them. Heck, I rarely use the 80mm. I have a 55 and a 35. He's always telling me: "you could put a longer lens on it and walk back." It's not the same, but I have just stopped trying to debate that one. :) He's a really good photographer, but I know I am right on that one.

I have generally found the Pentax to be a really great meter. It better be, it cost enough. At some point I need to get a scanner, but that's going to have to wait because I bought that darn Fuji 56mm F1.2 which I realized after shooting yesterday will probably just stay in the bag. I'm kicking myself on that one.

It's time to take the dogs out, I am going re-read this later and I do have some questions, but I want to make sure I'm not asking something really stupid. I'm not sure you can use the 3200 in this little camera, but I may give it a try. I think I will get two rolls of 35mm 3200. I am running a test tonight on the MF 3200. I can develop the two 35mm rolls in the same tank as as the 120 and see what I get..........

I have to do this while Dave isn't looking or I will get a huge lecture on "Why are you changing films when we spent all that time testing the Acros and getting the proper development time/ISO rating, blah, blah, blah. He thinks you only shoot one type of film. He did give me a 4X5 and that I haven't tried out yet. He's very old school and total nice person. We just differ philosophically on a few things.
 
Looks like Hamish got to your question before I could reply to your PM. All I can say to the development question is that I agree. You could go through the process of determining N for that film as well but to be honest, given the high contrast and the type of images you will be taking, I wouldn't bother. Without knowing what you are shooting, would a 'slower' film and a longer exposure be an option if you are on a tripod?
 
Brian Moore said:
That film is actually 1200 ASA isn't it? (Made to be pushed to 3200, thus the box speed rating.)
Click to expand...

Pete Askew said:
Looks like Hamish got to your question before I could reply to your PM. All I can say to the development question is that I agree. You could go through the process of determining N for that film as well but to be honest, given the high contrast and the type of images you will be taking, I wouldn't bother. Without knowing what you are shooting, would a 'slower' film and a longer exposure be an option if you are on a tripod?
Click to expand...
Pete Askew said:
Looks like Hamish got to your question before I could reply to your PM. All I can say to the development question is that I agree. You could go through the process of determining N for that film as well but to be honest, given the high contrast and the type of images you will be taking, I wouldn't bother. Without knowing what you are shooting, would a 'slower' film and a longer exposure be an option if you are on a tripod?
Click to expand...


Brian- That would help because the GA 645 goes to ISO 1600. It is the camera I really wanted to use it with.

Pete- I want the grain and contrast. The laundromat may be an issue with the tripod. Especially since the really expensive (POS) carbon fiber tripod I bought broke. I'm not using this huge metal one from the 1960's or thereabouts that Dave gave me. It's really for a 4 X 5 so it can take the weight of that rail you move the bellows on. It weighs a ton but it's built like a Tiger tank. It's not going to break. Anyway, for the other night things yes I could use the Acros and probably will use both. But for the interior things I want they grain/contrast. I think it's kind of compelling. Lately I've been using those VSCO presets on the digital because I'm just bored to death with the perfect digital look. Does that make sense?

One question- I noted on the D76 info above it's 12 minutes at 1:1. That's the same formula/time I am using for the Acros unless I have really recover some highlights (then I do N-2). Would there be an issue if I was happy with 12 minutes of processing the Ilford 3200 and Acros 100 (rated at 200 which is how I get the 12 minute time) in the same tank? That way I could slip a couple of rolls in without Dave noticing. :)
 
Steve Boykin said:
One question- I noted on the D76 info above it's 12 minutes at 1:1. That's the same formula/time I am using for the Acros unless I have really recover some highlights (then I do N-2). Would there be an issue if I was happy with 12 minutes of processing the Ilford 3200 and Acros 100 (rated at 200 which is how I get the 12 minute time) in the same tank? That way I could slip a couple of rolls in without Dave noticing. :)
Click to expand...

Steve I recently posted a couple of images from two different rolls of film that I developed together in the same tank. One roll was Ilford Delta 100 and the other was Ilford HP5 Plus. I wasn't worried about the different emulsion speed ratings (100 vs 400) at all because I used a highly dilute developer and a 0ne hour "stand" processing technique. Rodinal, my developer of choice, is good for stand processing. I don't know if D76 or HC110 are, though. Anyway, I got pronounced grain from the HP5 Plus. (I think primarily as a reult of the agitation regimen I used--namely: 60 seconds of agitation up front, then let stand for the remainder of the hour.)
 
Brian Moore said:
Steve I recently posted a couple of images from two different rolls of film that I developed together in the same tank. One roll was Ilford Delta 100 and the other was Ilford HP5 Plus. I wasn't worried about the different emulsion speed ratings (100 vs 400) at all because I used a highly dilute developer and a 0ne hour "stand" processing technique. Rodinal, my developer of choice, is good for stand processing. I don't know if D76 or HC110 are, though. Anyway, I got pronounced grain from the HP5 Plus. (I think primarily as a reult of the agitation regimen I used--namely: 60 seconds of agitation up front, then let stand for the remainder of the hour.)
Click to expand...

That's interesting. I'm going to look at the Rodinal. I don't think we have any at the school, but I can order some. I am wanting more grain on some of the photos. Dave has me agitating every 1 minute. I wonder if that's to reduce the grain. He shoots Delta 100 exclusively. I am hesitant to mention adding grain because he wants me to shoot one type of film, with one exact development time/agitation schedule, ect. I'm starting to want something else and right now is just not a good time to ask because I will have to explain it then he will spend forever trying to debunk what I want to do.....:) Our photo trips can be rather stormy, but they are fun.
 
Pete Askew said:
I know what you mean about the film vs digital 'look'. For enhanced grain / contrast I prefer HP5 pushed to ISO 1600 but then you'd lose the convenience of developing the 3200 and the Akcros together - which would be fine anyway.
Click to expand...

It would be nice to process them together, but it's not necessary. I think what I am going to try to do is take Brian's advice, rate it at 1200 and see what I get. I want to go ahead and use the D76 because we just made a big jug of it. I think we have some HP5 there also so I can try it both ways.

And....I need a haircut...

I had this woman in the park try and take my photo this AM while the dogs were playing with her kids. I am trying to find some reason to keep this 56mm F1.2 lens. She took 8 shots and this was the only one in focus. She just could not get the half press the shutter thing. And....the viewfinder was a foreign concept. Eventually I told her just use the back screen which I had to turn on because I never use it. That explains why I look so grumpy. I was honestly about to lose it when she said for the 8th or 9th time: "What do you mean half press the shutter..."

Anyway, I processed with the VSCO film Porta 400 to make me less ugly. :) I really like this software. It not only musses up the photos but it gets rid of a lot of the computer face time. The less time I spend in Lightroom the happier I am.

031301.jpg
 
Hamish Gill said:
I think that should be your avatar :)
Click to expand...
Pete Askew said:
All sound good Steve. Experiment, it is the only way.

Your image looks like it should be accompanying an article telling of the way your life has changed after the hurricane swept your house away and the insurance won't talk to you! I like it! :)
Click to expand...

Yes...she definitely got that decisive moment. That moment being immediately after I had said for the 8th or 9th time (after demonstrating): "Just half press the shutter release button, when the little box is green it's in focus."

Normally I'm only half that grumpy looking. :)
 
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