MF If I'm going to do it ... (I bought a hasselblad)

Looks to be a good price Hamish, compared to those I see on eBay us.

Lovely bits of kit. I bet it's going to be a special moment when it arrives.
 
Pete Askew said:
It looks a pretty reasonable buy to me. It is probably an A12 back but they all look pretty much the same. I reckon by wear on the front (given that he says the lens is clean) it is the bayonet he is referring to where you mount filters, hoods etc. They often show shiny marks through the paint.
Click to expand...

Good call, yeah your prob right!
So what's the difference between different backs then?
I'm guessing that's a bit of a broad question?
Is the a12 the most likely?
Are there any that would cause me issue?
 
Ignoring the pre-A (automatic) backs, there are essentially 5 different roll film backs (there is also a Polaroid back, a cut sheet back and of course digital backs). Yours is a post '97 A back.

A12 6x6 on 120 film
A24 6x6 on 220 film
A16 6x4.5 on 120 film
A32 6x4.5 on 220 film
A70 6x6 on 120 bulk film.

They all fit the cameras and control the format you are using - you don't need to do anything other than fit the back. You can change backs mid-roll and switch film / format in this way. The most common back is the A12 and I guess the one you want. Internally they changed a bit over the years but all are fully compatible. Early ones don't have a dark-slide store (started in '97 hence why I know yours is post '97) but they do have the nicer swing-out spindle ends. Personally I like the mid to late 80's back the best but the latest are nice also. As I mentioned before, ideally the insert and back casing should match so that the film lines up perfectly with the mask. Even when the serial numbers don't match they apparently often still line up fine (I don't know because mine all do and I've never tried swapping them over - I think I have about 15 backs).

Hope that makes sense.

Th one thing that is certain is that it isn't an A70! They are huge and I have no idea if you can buy 120 format film in bulk any more.
 
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I suppose if it's a late one then it is most likely a a12?
Fingers crossed anyway!
Cheers for your help so far Pete, I have a feeling I'm at the bottom of a steep learning curve!
The seller has told me I should have it Tuesday ... So I'll get back to you then with more questions I expect ;)
 
Hasselblad

Deffo an A12 back & one of the last ones, the older ones were 12 on backs & you had to load the film & look through a hole in the back to the backing paper to get to No.1.The prism is a newer variety as well looking at it so all in all a bit of a bargain if you ask me and you will get years & years of pleasure out of it.Our technician can always sort things out if you ever have any problems Hamish if of help.
Use & enjoy !
 
49823974.jpg


all seems to work, and yes all you said makes sense Pete
I few confusing moments ... but to be expected!

one concern i had was that the auxiliary shutter can close before the leaf does ... i thought this might be a fault, but reading the instructions it does say that you should just hold the shutter button for longer when shooting at 1/15th or slower ...

im also worried that the auxiliary shutter needs a lube as it doesnt shut properly until the camera is wound ... it sits slightly open like this

3fdee518.jpg


I cant see that being an issue in the real world though as of course the mirror being up and the leaf being closed will keep light out ... right??

everything else seems to be fine!

I think it is an older lens ... ?

e2941db8.jpg


2c1de6db.jpg


and the screen is not an acute-matte, despite it having a lightmeter that really should only be used with the acute-matte... and it being a c/m??? Ah well ... a bit of a cobbled together from bits camera i think?


Andy, would you get me a quote on a CLA please matey and ill look to get it to you in the new year sometime!
 
Looks good Hamish. They make a great noise don't they?!! :)


Well the camera was made in 1981 (RV date code) and the lens was made in 1980. Ideally you need to sort out that rear curtain. Is the spring on it OK (moderate resistance when you poke it with your finger)? It won't so much of a problem with a prism finder but light can sneak round the mirror and fog the film in the back. It might free up with a bit of shooting. The body has obviously seen a fair bit of use as the light 'seals' are quite worn but this should be no problem. They were designed to take huge amounts of use although I have a 1980 body that still has the paint on them!! A useful tip is to always use the release lever when putting the back on rather than just snapping it on - it saves a lot of wear.

I guess you've sussed out the coupling / decoupling of the aperture / shutter speed (pull the serrated tag back on the RH side of the lens to uncouple them while adjusting - later rings were decoupled by default and could be coupled if you wished). The DoF preview is the tiny lever beside the serrated one. To reset it you need to open the aperture and then re-close it. The lever below the flash sync lever is so you don't accidentally move it when shooting (I had a whole session ruined once because mine was sticking and I managed to move the lever to M without noticing!! - fixed in a service). The number scale in red relates the exposure index produced by the meter. It seems that the meter will read about 1 stop too low on a non-acute matte screen. I guess that will be easy enough to check.

Does the insert and the back match?

Just one other random note, the black lever just below the rewind knob is the mirror pre-release.
 
Got it all sussed matey!
But nice to have all that confirmed!
I'm used to the EV scale from various vintage cameras (as discussd here http://www.realphotographersforum.com/film-conventional-cameras/1885-voigtlander-vitessa-l.html)
I like that system especially with a vf that gives me te number reading ...Looks more like 2 stops out but I'll experiment more ... It shouldn't be an issue though is I can just set the max aperture setting different on the finder to compensate ... Not ideal, but not a major issue as its a set and forget work around really!
Back and insert match

93a64e94.jpg


The rear curtain seems to have strength in the springs but I guess not quite enough...
I'll just have to make sure the recock the shutter straight after I take the shot to be on the safe side ... That as I said flips it into position every time!

Hopefully a CLA from Andy will be pretty reasonable!

Overall I'm pleased! Just need a clean and a acute-matte screen really... For the risky punt it could have turned out much much worse I think!
 
I agree, turned out well and I'm sure a minor service will sort out any little quirks. Yes, pre-release is mirror-up and winding on quickly after and exposure will probably sort any potential fogging. As I said it will be minimal with the prism on anyway. An Acute-Matte screen will make quite a difference although it is probably more noticeable on a WLF (I assume you've checked to make sure it isn't one - only the D has the cut-outs). I'll have also have a rummage about as I might have a spare crank as I bought an odd collection of bits off Dave a while back.

So, when's the first roll of film going in then? :)
 
... Only the d has the cut outs??
How do you ID a non d then?
I'm half working on assumption based on the meter being apparently out ... The other half on the lack of d cut outs ... I hadn't realised there was a non d acute-matte ... Maybe the meter it's self is a little out or I'm not setting it up properly...?

Honna run a roll through tomorrow if I can find the time! :)

Spare crank would save me the faff of finding one on eBay :)
 
The cross hair is embossed in the screen rather than painted on the Acute-Matte and you should see refraction patterns from the very fine fresnel pattern when you hold it up to the light. If you don't it is a standard screen. I can't remember what I paid for one a few years back but looking on eBay it doesn't seem like it was much more new. I did find one in the clear-out box of a camera shop in Berlin a few years ago (they were giving up their Hasselblad franchise). New - 60 Euros! :)

Might be worth giving Paul a call at Commercial Cameras as he's just taken in a load of S/H Hasselblad stuff.
 
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B50 hood ... Yes that was another question I had! Ta!

Looks like it might be a accute-matte then

3e5181d2.jpg


There's def a fresnel pattern there ... I think ...???
But that looks like a painted cross hair??

So yeah as I said before I spotted your other posts .. Is there a split screen for it??
 
Cheers for the link ... That confirms my idea to adjust the max aperture on the finder...
That seems the logical thing to do as I am more likely to be using different speed film than buying any other lenses any time soon!

I'll have an experiment further in day light and see if I can work out if it is a stop out ...
If you could have a look at your acute-matte that would e very handy for further confirmation!

I love working round all these little foibles, it's realy half the joy of working with older cameras I think! :)
 
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