Well if this was the first go around then you're well down the track Jeff.
Shooting live models under constant lighting is no easy task.
With flash, the subject is frozen by the short burst of light, so that avoids most if not all of the subject moving blur.
But with floodlights you don't get that benefit - so you need to keep the shutter sped high enough to freeze any movement
I would think 1/250 would be a good place to start, unless you're capturing someone in motion, such as dancing etc.
Next setting for me would be aperture - to be safe you can set the aperture to give you a deeper depth of field, so that the models face and body is all in focus when you focus the camera on her eyes.
With the 100mm lens at a shooting distance of say 10ft - setting the camera at f/8 would give you approx 1ft of depth of field
So if you focussed on her eyes anything 6 inches in front of her eyes, and behind her eyes, would be in sharp focus - so her face and body should be good an sharp, but the back wall would be going blurry, which is good.
With your shutter speed at 1/250, and aperture at f/8 - you still need enough light to get the shot correctly exposed. So you can adjust the amount/quantity of illumination by using more or less lighting - or more likely you have a set up where you need all your lights, and what you want to do is adjust that film speed (ISO) setting on the camera up or down, so that the exposure at 1/250 f/8 is good.
Once you have that dialed in - you can take some test shots and look at them on the rear screen of the camera - check for sharpness and exposure - if the camera has an exposure histogram you can check that to see if the shot looks well exposed.
You will probably have to manually select the auto focus (AF) point that lies over the subjects face - rather than letting the camera decide which AF point to use - this will make it easy to focus on the face, and that makes for a good portrait shot.
Having a play with the camera away from the shoot is a good idea - figure these things out without the pressure of models and lights and people watching!
One of the advantages of using floodlights as you have, is that you can see how the lighting will look on the shot - just by looking. With flash this is much more difficult. You've done a great job getting even lighting and some good feature definition, so I think you have a good feel for that already. Reviewing shots on the camera screen or even a laptop, is another good gut check to see how it's looking.
I used several flood lights and T5's no flash, the second picture was under 6,700k light with no 5,000k turned on to add the red spectrum.
