Another 3D printed camera in the works...

[Paul Taylor]

After having success with my resin printed (Creality Halot Mage - great resin printer. Love the thing) 6x12 and fdm printed (AnyCubic Kobra Max - mediocre machine, but it has huge print volume) 6x17 - I started looking for a handheld 4x5 (mainly to use my Lomography graflex compatible instax wide back.

Much to my surprise - someone made the files for such a thing. The "WillTravel" camera - which is available in a variety of sizes including 4x5, and one made to use a 90mm lens.

In celebration (not really, but that is how I am justifying it) last week - I bought another 3D printer. This time a Bambu Labs P1S with the AMS Pro 2 (for multicolor / multimaterial prints)& hardened nozzle/gears (so I can print carbon fiber/nylon/glassfiber/PC/etc filaments.)

After it arrived - I printed more or less non-stop of about 90 hours to verify the machine was good-to-go and it most certainly is. This machine is by far the nicest/feature rich/integrated machine I have owned over 15 years of consumer level printing. I honestly don't know why people by anything else - it is that good. The prints are absolutely gorgeous, the multicolor/material part of the machine works flawlessly, the phone app is great - I can check status when not at home and see a live video stream.

So here is the link to the person who designed the camera :

Morten's Film and darkroom stuff – Just another geeky analog film place.

The person who created it says it involves about 30-40 hours print time. I am less than 12 in and basically done with the printed parts. The Bambu P1S is very fast (for a 3d printer.)

I also found this on MakerWorld, so decided to print it :
PXL_20250729_142400418 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr
PXL_20250729_142605855 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

But here is the current status of the handheld 4x5 camera :

PXL_20250731_212145314 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

Ground glass holder, side grip, copal zero "lens board" for the 65mm Helicoid (bought off amazon.)

PXL_20250731_213532971 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

The main body, film back alignment plate (in yellow) and two different ground glass carriers (have to figure out which one I will like better.)
PXL_20250731_214457297 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

This machine makes for absolutely beautiful and accurate prints, here are the threads on the body for the 65mm Helicoid.
PXL_20250731_214550514 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

The various little bungee parts that hold the backs on:
PXL_20250731_214810973 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

Perfect fit with a 4x5 film holder and the Lomography back. The alignment strip on the backs click in perfectly.
PXL_20250731_214639361.PORTRAIT by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

PXL_20250731_214657458.PORTRAIT by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

And for a bonus - I nearly bought this earlier today. Resisted the urge. Might go back.
PXL_20250731_200736963 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

Lol.

 

[Gary R. Smith]

What are you using for CAD (or are you relying on pre-designed models)?

 

[Paul Taylor]

What are you using for CAD (or are you relying on pre-designed models)?

This isn't my files - I linked the website of the person who made the files in the post.

However, for the stuff I design/model I use TinkerCad (free, web based and super easy to use) for simpler stuff - and Autodesk Fusion360 for more complicated stuff. Autodesk Fusion360 has a free tier for personal use, but I find Tinkercad usually gets the job done and is way simpler. It is amazing to me how easy 3D modeling has gotten over the years, compared to the 90s when I used to use AutoCad.

 

[Gary R. Smith]

I designed Autodesk's Inventor solid modeling system back when I had to work for a living. There are times when I wish I still had some sort of CAD s/w but mostly I can get by without.

 

[Pete Askew]

What an interesting thread, and what an interesting camera.

Aside from a few bits for lighting, I have yet to design / print any proper photographic gear. Having read this, I can think of a few bits that would improve the BlackBoxy2 that is described on this site and built as part of a ‘DIY Camera Challenge’.

Thread 'Large Format, Paper Negative, DIY Camera Project'

Apr 4, 2012

In response to Hamish's DIY camera challenge I decided to build a simple large format camera, similar in design to some of the early 19th century designs. I'd thought first of making it out of wood but with sheet plastic material I can do it in the studio without making too much mess. I was planning on calling it a Brown Boxy but unfortunately I could only find black, red or yellow plastic. Here are a few 'during construction' shots to record progress.

So, given that the deadline is approaching fast, yesterday evening I made a start on my DIY camera. On Saturday, after reviewing the...

• Pete Askew
• Replies: 53
• Forum: Competitions, Themes & Blogs

I also use Bambu printers (although I have a Qidi-Tech i-Fast, but it is slow in comparison and is only used for materials that need a temperature controlled chamber these days). Much of my printing is done either on an X1-Carbon or an A1-Mini ( a great little printer which, when used without its AMS, takes up so little space and so sits in the corner of the studio and is often the first choice for small stuff).

I use Fusion360 although I usually check on the various libraries to see if anyone has already made what I’m thinking of first!

I’m looking forward to seeing the results from the camera.

 

[Paul Taylor]

Thanks Pete - I was surprised to find something like I was looking for already made. At best, it will work as intended - at worst I will have to modify the files a bit. Either way, it should be fun.

There was a ton of conventional 3d printable view cameras but this was the only handheld large format design I could find that had verified use and review. The few parts I needed to buy (focusing helicoid, matte acrylic for focusing, and some bungee cord) arrives today so hopefully I can get it to a workable state.

It is amazing the wealth of 3d models that are hanging out on various repositories. Most of the stuff I have modeled myself is pretty niche stuff (injection stack covers for hilborn injection equipped gassers, organizers for my black powder firearms, organizers for my film fridge, gears for my wife's stupid blender, and a bunch of prototype small parts for when I worked in the custom car / hot rod industry.) It still feels like Star Trek (anyone who thinks Star Wars is better - is wrong!) every time I use the machines.

15 years ago I bought my first 3D printer - and it was made of laser cut wood and fishing line (PrintrBot) and had a 50/50 chance of either burning my house down or actually printing something successfully. Now I can be eating breakfast on the other side of the world and use my phone to send a print job to a printer that a child can run. Amazing stuff.

 

[Paul Taylor]

Here is tonight's update :

I glued the yellow film holder / back guide on, and masked for paint.

PXL_20250802_033047091 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

I used some matte black acrylic paint on the "lens cone."

PXL_20250802_041231021 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

Some threaded inserts, and appropriate sized M3 allen bolts for the side grip :

PXL_20250802_040138185 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

You "press" the inserts in with a soldering iron :

PXL_20250802_040345105 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

PXL_20250802_040507909 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

Grip is now quite attached.

PXL_20250802_041238440 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

Next up I needed to cut the "ground glass" I ordered a 12"x12" acrylic off amazon that is matte on one side, glossy on the other. The reviews said it was a pretty hard / scratch proof sheet. They must have been using a banana to try to scratch it - cause if you breath on this crap extra heavy it is going to scratch. I have a new tempered glass tablet screen protect somewhere - so I am going to apply that to the viewing side so my loupe doesn't destroy this.

I measured and scribed the cut lines with a large "xacto" knife/blade. Clamped the pieces to the desk - and they snapped off clean.

PXL_20250802_042020343 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

PXL_20250802_042848485 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

I did a little filing around the edges to clean up the snap lines.

I installed the "ground glass" into the 3d printed frame, securing it with a couple washers and 3mm allen head bolts.

PXL_20250802_043228564 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

Here is the lens I am using (90mm Super Angulon) mounted in the 65mm helicoid using the 3d printed threaded "lens board."

PXL_20250802_034246953 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr

My quick focusing test reveals it is really close - I just need a 5mm or so spacer and it will golden. I am printing a 5,10, and 20mm spacer as I type this.

Here is the 65mm helicoil threaded onto the camera body. Went on smooth.

PXL_20250802_041529231 by Paul Taylor, on Flickr


So after work tomorrow I am going to put the screen protector on the world's softest acrylic - and mount the lens with a 10mm shim and test focus again. When that works well - I will then measure out some distances in my back yard and make a zone focus scale for the camera - so that way I don't have to use the ground glass all the time.

The design of this camera uses bungee cord to tension the film holder / back - I may design some sort of quick release system instead - or not. We will see how the bungee cords work.

So far it has been an easy camera to assemble and print, so my hat is off to the designer who made the files.

 

[Gary R. Smith]

I am going to apply that to the viewing side so my loupe doesn't destroy this.

Another way to ensure that your loupe won't scratch the surface is to leave your loupe behind at the last place you shot...

 

[Christopher Dubea]

Cool stuff.

I've got a Bambu P1S as well. It's an amazing printer.

I've been a user of SolidWorks since early days, '95 or so. I've got a seat of v2023.

If anyone would like something modeled, I would be happy to give it a try. Keeps my skill set up.

Just PM me, and I'll send you my email address and we can go from there.

As an example, I modeled and printed this lens hood for a Fuji XF60mm f2.4:



The lens hood that came with the lens was nearly bigger than the lens. This sockets into the bayonet on the end of the lens. It fits my 35mm f1.4 as well.

Cheers